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Teddy Quinlivan in a black coat walked onto the runway, and the coat was covered with a layer of white gauze. The person who liked to play the Sn apchat filter could recognize the face above the mouth with a rainbow. After a while, Sarah Abney also walked out in a white top hat. The white windbreaker floated another face, like a black phantom, with two eyes shining and lifelike.
In the background music, folk singer Joan Baez sang the classic "Diamondsand Rust" (diamond and rust) with her sad and lonely voice: "Oh, I will be cursed / your phantom will come again / but this is nothing unusual / Just the moonlight is full / and you happen to call."
MaisonMargielaspring/summer17, Look7
MaisonMargielaspring/summer17, Look24
The two girls wore the 7th and 24th Looks in the Maison Margiela Artisanal2 017 Spring/Summer collection. This is the third spring-summer collection of the former Dior chief designer John Galliano who joined Maison Margiela in 2015 with the theme "Filter".
“In this series, we added the filter, but we also want to remove it.†The brand explained in a public statement, “The meaning of sharing is to connect with a community and become part of a certain alliance. And seek resonance with the common emotions rooted in memory."
In addition to clothing, the headwear and facials made by Pat Mc Grath are reminiscent of self-portraits that are interesting but also distorting the true face of the person. On some veil, the eyes, nose, and mouth are scattered around, forming a strange contrast with the face of the model after the veil; and the faces of some models are completely covered by high-gloss mirrored headwear, and the real face is invisible.
The response on social media is not surprising. As of the evening of January 28, the two sets of Looks mentioned at the beginning of the text received 20,603 and 56,711 praises on the official Instagram account. A netizen named "Alyssa Vingan Klein" commented on the seventh set of Look: "Everyone's favorite Snapchat filter has a high price!" And for that black phantom face, there are more words. "Beautiful", "genius", "holy", "excellent". One comment paid a special tribute to John Galliano: "I almost stopped breathing. Long live the king!"
In the white trench coat, the black face is used to paint the face. It is Benjamin Shine, a British artist currently living in Canberra, Australia. He calls his creation "painting with fabrics". Usually only a long piece of tulle is used. System, folding, ironing to paint and sculpture.
Although he has previously cooperated with brands such as Google, Coca-Cola, MTV, and with the creative element of Givenchy creative director Riccardo Tisci, he has launched a sweater series with images of the Virgin Mary, but Benjamin Shine is accepting Another Magaz. Ine interview said that this creation is particularly challenging. According to Vogue, the show sample took hundreds of hours to complete.
“I really like the concept that Galliano puts forward: the clothes themselves are practical, but when the tulle floats into the air, it seems to escape from the original decorative function, forming a more embarrassing and more eternal image. But this means I want to make a 3D image that can be moved, and I also want to try to see if it can be made transparent, so that it looks like a smog effect. We have done countless structural and fabric tests to achieve the current effect, the whole The process also requires me to do it by hand."
There are many people who speculate that this face is Kate Moss, because John Galliano has especially thanked the supermodel for designing a wedding dress for him, so that he can write again after the "anti-Semitic remarks." But Shine responded that it was just an anonymous face and had nothing to do with KateMoss.
The work of BenjaminShine. The left side is called "Serenity", which is a piece of tulle sewed on the canvas; the right side is called "Solitude" (lonely), which is only a partial map of the painting.
Every year's high season, Maison Margiela's work always gives people a different expectation. Since the establishment of Maison Margiela in the late 1980s, looking for old fabrics, reshaping it, structuring it, and recreating it has become the core of the brand's aesthetics, and why it is so influential in the fashion world. s reason. Founder Martin Margiela himself once transformed a butcher's leather apron into a dress, split the antique wedding dress into pieces, and re-sew it into a jacket. Until the designer retired in 2008, respect for the past, and looking for emotional resonance in old clothes has always been the source of inspiration for the brand's imagination.
It is certainly impossible to achieve this dream of ready-to-wear, which is why the Maison Margiela Artisanal series was finally born in 2006. The entire design team looks around the world for antique clothing dating back to the 19th century, such as the British Edwardian lace, whitish jeans, silk petticoats, and then hand-turned them into new things. The fake gold ring was spliced ​​into a waistband coat, the brown belts were sewn together into trousers, and the cheap printed cotton and denim were embroidered with precious embroidery. A piece of clothing to Margiela seems to have become a statement, and is given new semantics in the process of being reversed and disassembled.
The rarity of the fabric and the complexity of the craft make Maison Margiela Artisanal an expensive product that is limited in production and therefore only exhibited during the high season in Paris. But Martin Margiela insisted that this was not a high-profile series. In terms of price, it is indeed expensive; but from the clothing itself to the display form, it is much simpler than the complicated, rich and gorgeous counterparts, with strong reflection, not only to show off wealth and power.
When John Galliano joined Maison Margiela in 2015, no one knew what psychological changes the ghost designer had experienced in the years after he lost his job after the "anti-Semitic remarks," but he apparently deconstructed and imagined Maison Margiela. The understanding is very thorough.
The Maison Margiela Artisanal collection by John Galliano in January last year opened with The humblegesture oftearingpaper. Every part of the white dress can be found to be torn and filled with paper or cheap velvet. Subsequently, some expensive fabrics were treated in a seemingly random manner: the georgette was pressed with pleats, the edges of the jacquard brocade were torn, and the leather was filled with mesh. A prom dress is worn as a worker's apron at the waist, as explained in the show description - "The decorative surface may transition into a practical element."
In short, what you see is definitely not just the flowery John Galliano in the past. The new creation conveys the message that expensive Gao Ding can tell the lives of ordinary people, and a five-figure coat can explain why our life is so full of fun but boring.
Maison Margiela Artisanal2016 Spring Summer Collection
This is the same for the 2017 spring and summer high-definition series. When the model's face overlaps with the exaggerated and distorted eyebrows on the veil, when the “filter†really wraps a daily windbreaker, we seem to suddenly see the fun and absurdity of social media more clearly.
Interestingly, the Gaoding series is now the engine of sales growth for Maison Margiela. CEO Giovanni Pungetti said in an interview with WWD last year that since John Galliano joined in 2015, the brand's revenue has increased by 30%, and Maison Margiela Artisanal is also considered to be the core series that shapes the brand image and sets the tone for other series.
However, the reason for Maison Margiela Artisanal's heated discussion is similar to that of Vetements's high-definition show recently, with the theme of "Stereotype" (stereotype). Whether it's a real bodyguard, a tramp, a gypsy, a punk, or an ordinary person brushing a Snapchat filter every day, it's impossible to buy a five-figure dress. They are just some of the new symbols that are refined in fashion, sparkling but also rusty. Non-financial people show how they have grasped the new definition of cool in this era by talking about it and the people with financial resources.
And this era itself may still be a landscape-filled world, as Guy Debord cites the words of Feuerbach in Landscape Society. "The symbol is better than the real thing, the copy is better than Originally, appearance is better than reality, and phenomena are better than essence."
Editor in charge: Yang Bo
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